Everything you ever wanted to know about your scalp (and probably more!)
We were fascinated recently to meet Scandinavian Biolabs co-founder Anders Reckendorff (see below) at a press breakfast, and talk all things follicular.
Many, many moons ago, a couple of visits to Parisian hair health expert Léonor Greyl convinced us of the importance of giving plenty of TLC to your scalp – and we couldn’t be more pleased that the world is waking up to this. So, we asked Anders to explain the latest thinking on scalp care – and the steps we can all take.
We hope you find his answers as fascinating as we do…
• It feels like the world has just 'discovered' the scalp (belatedly!) - why is that? ‘The scalp has long been the unsung hero of hair health,’ says Anders. ‘But luckily, people are catching up and learning how important their scalp health is. That’s thanks to the advancements in dermatological research, which have shed more light on how the scalp's condition directly affects hair growth and health, as well as a more general, cultural shift towards a more holistic approach to beauty and health. Now people want to do more than just treat the most obvious symptom – for example dandruff or hair loss; we want to understand why and get to the root of the issue, which in hair health is very often linked back to the scalp.’
• So, why is scalp health important? ‘Healthy scalps are crucial for healthy hair. It’s where everything starts. Our scalp provides not only the necessary nutrients but also acts as an incubatory environment that fosters new hair regrowth. Like plants need good soil, your hair needs a healthy scalp. Unhealthy or neglected scalps can cause things such as dryness, irritation, and even hair loss - all leading to decreased levels of new hair growth.’
What are the most common scalp problems, and what causes them? ‘Apart from genetics, a lot of issues also arise from lifestyle. A poor diet lacking iron, zinc, vitamins, and proteins, along with stress, smoking, toxin exposure, product build-up and hormonal imbalances can all impede hair growth, leading to conditions like hair loss, oily or dry scalp and other scalp problems.’
Dandruff ‘Excess sebum facilities the growth of a yeast-like fungus creating flaking and itchy scalp. Many factors contribute to dandruff from stress to hormonal changes, to a disturbance in the skin's pH balance, to drying out of the scalp caused by winter radiator heat - all play a role in the excess sebum production that creates a breeding ground for dandruff. In fact, winter is known as "dandruff season" in temperate climates.’
Sebum ((too oily) ‘Sebum is an oily, waxy substance produced by your body’s sebaceous glands. It coats, moisturizes, and protects your skin. As reasons for excess sebum production the following are often mentioned:
• Hormonal medications often increase sebum production. This includes testosterone, some progesterones and phenothiazines [a family of anti-psychotic medicines]. In many cases, pituitary, adrenal, ovarian and testicular conditions can cause either an increase or decrease in production.
• Itchy skin and dry skin can be caused by some of the same reasons that cause dandruff. If the skin on your head is itchy and flaking, you may have a dry scalp. The condition occurs when your scalp loses too much moisture. Hair care products, the weather, age and various skin conditions can cause dry scalp. You may be able to treat the condition by switching shampoos – but talk to your healthcare provider if dry scalp persists.
Why is good circulation so vital for scalp care – and can we boost that through massage? If so, how should we massage the scalp? ‘Good circulation is important as it can help improve scalp blood flow and therefore oxygen and nutrient delivery it needs for hair follicles to thrive. Good circulation creates a healthier environment for your scalp and hair.
And yes, massage is a great way to boost circulation. The best, and easiest, way to massage your scalp is using a massaging tool like our Scandinavian Biolabs Stimulating Scalp Massager/£17 (find it here) – this will help you easily perform a scalp massage, without using too much, or too little pressure, to the scalp. After applying your shampoo work your scalp massager, using light pressure, in small circular motions for five minutes to gently massage your scalp, stimulate circulation, gently exfoliate and deeply cleanse your hair and scalp.
We're also working on an extremely exciting electrical massaging tool that will hopefully launch at the end of 2024, after two years of meticulous development. This innovative device promises to enhance your scalp massage experience with cutting-edge technology.’
Alongside the right products, are there certain foods that benefit the scalp (or alternatively, tend to cause problems)? Ditto, supplements? ‘A healthy varied diet is important for the healthy functioning of all cells in the body. a diet rich in zinc, iron, Omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin B can support scalp health.”
Omega-3 fatty acids help keep hair healthy and nourished, prevent hair shedding. Fatty acids are found in fish like salmon and mackerel, and in flaxseeds and walnuts.
Zinc – an essential mineral which plays a key role in the process of protein synthesis and cell division, zinc is found in oysters, beef, and pumpkin seeds,
Iron – needed for DNA synthesis, which produces new cells. leafy greens, red meat, and lentils.
Vitamin B – including B2 (riboflavin), B3 (niacin), and B5 (pantothenic acid), are crucial for hair health and overall well-being. They support cellular development, metabolism, energy production, and maximize nutrient absorption by hair follicles, improving hair quality and quantity. B vitamins are found in meats, vegetables, whole grains, legumes, fish and eggs.
While a varied diet covers most of these, it can be good to supplement it with our Scandinavian Biolabs Hair Nutrient Tablets/£38 (find them here). This vegan formula contains a concentrated blend of B vitamins, C vitamins and zinc, as well as a blend of apple extract, horsetail extract and amino acids.
The foods you already might think of as ’unhealthy’ for your body might also have a negative impact on your scalp, such as:
High-Glycemic Foods – sugar and foods that quickly raise blood sugar levels, such as white bread, pastries, and other refined carbohydrates, can cause inflammation in the body and prompt the body to increase insulin production. This can lead to irritation and increased sebum production on the scalp, potentially resulting in oily hair and associated scalp problems like dandruff.
Saturated and trans fats can trigger the body’s inflammatory response which can impact the scalp. Especially if you suffer from conditions like psoriasis or dermatitis.
Alcohol can lead to dehydration, which might extend to the skin, including the scalp, making it dry and prone to flaking. Furthermore, alcohol can also deplete the body of important nutrients that are vital for maintaining healthy skin and hair.
Hope you’ve enjoyed these insights from Anders – he had so much to share, we’ll be running Part Two in a fortnight’s time!
Meanwhile, may your scalp be happier…